SAVE BIG MONEY WITH OUR LATEST FIND! Radiant Foil Insulation LOOKS GREAT !

Reflective Insulation has recently become a standard component of a total insulation system. It is designed for both new construction and retrofits. Using reflective insulation for either your home or metal building will increase the comfort level inside, protect against condensation and save on energy.

During the winter, 50-75% of heat loss through the ceiling and 65-80% of heat loss through walls is radiant. In the summer, up to 93% of heat gain is radiant. If you are depending on R-value (resistance) alone to insulate against heat gain and loss, you are losing half the battle.
 
 While other types of insulation are made to resist or impede the flow of warm air, reflective insulation reflects back radiant (infra-red) energy from the sun so it does not penetrate the building. It can also reflect back radiant heat inside the house so it does not escape. The concept is simple: each unit of radiant heat energy that is reflected away from your home in summer and each unit reflected back inside during winter means less operation of your air conditioning and heating systems, less wear and tear on your equipment, and less money you pay in utility costs. Compare reflective insulation to other insulation types.

INSULATION TYPE SUMMER WINTER
Regular
(Fiberglass Insulation) 93 % Heat Gain in summer/20 - 50% reflected
Loss of  50 - 80 % Home's Heat  in winter

Reflective Insulation 3 % Heat Gain in summer)97% reflected outward)/

3% heat loss in winter -WORKS BOTH DIRECTIONS ALL SEASONS!
97 %  heated space reflected (kept in home) 3 % Heat Loss
Each unit of radiant heat energy REFLECTED AWAY from your home in SUMMER & BACK inside during WINTER equals EQUALS less operation of your AC & HEAT, and LOWER utility costs year-round!

RADIANT SUN HEAT REDUCING FOIL INFO.

Materials that are present in most building systems, wood, brick, glass, steel, aluminum, and Fiberglass, etc. have a characteristic called emissivity. This is a term for “does the material absorb or reflect heat”. The larger the number the more energy the material absorbs which is converted to heat. Well, Brick, wood, steel, shingles, concrete, stucco, rock, tile, have an emissivity of .95+/- a few points. AND, aluminum has an emissivity of .03. This means

that all except aluminum absorb 95% of the energy and converts it to heat, while aluminum only absorbs 3%. Aluminum reflects 97% of the energy that hits the surface. Conclusion: why not manage the energy, rather than the heat it produces…? In the experiment, this is what the foil did; it reflected the heat from the source back to the source. If this was the inside of your house, the heat would be reflected back into the living space; and if this was the outside of your house the sun’s “rays” would be reflected back to …. Space.

This leads to R-values. All materials have an R-Value. The R stands for Resistance to heat flow from hot to cold (Physics again: Heat always seeks cold, and warm air rises). In order to engage R-Values in materials, the building must produce heat and the heat is properly conducted to colder places, I.E. Outside. In the process the heat being

conducted to colder places warms everything it is in contact with, studs, walls, ceiling, floor joists, and the insulation. Since all of the building materials have an emissivity of .93 -.95 the entire house is absorbing and moving the heat to cold. The experiment showed that Fiberglas did a nice job conducting heat to the Bottom of the box. The heat could only have been conducted since hot air rises and the heat source was above the Fiberglas.

 Now we move from winter to spring and summer. We notice that the sun is higher in the sky, better for a direct hit on the earth and its objects. Your roof is a great target. The roof surface like your cars hood can easily reach something south of 200ºF ( Don’t we all have foil windshield reflectors stuffed between the wheel and the glass…?), and that heat is conducted to all parts of the house connected to the roof. The attic heats up, the Fiberglas heats

up, the framing heats up… from top to bottom! This is why at 3AM you are still benefiting from suns absorbed heat in your second floor bedrooms, or through out the house in single story structures. The absorbed heat is the gift that keeps on giving… What is interesting is, the top of your house is heated up, and like the experiment, the only way the heat gets to heat the room to an uncomfortable level is by radiant heat formation.

At this point, the folks in the southern warm climates are wondering: Air Conditioning or Foil, AC or foil, AC or foil?…..  And the folks in the northern cold climates are wondering: more fiberglass, or foil? Well, we observed in the experiment, 13 inches of Fiberglas reached 100ºF plus in 20 minutes, and we learned that the more material we place to absorb heat the hotter and longer the heat will radiate to colder places. So we could fill the building with conventional insulation and not stop any of the heat from conduction to cold.. (In the experiment above, a sample was run with 6 inches of Fiberglas, and it reached 110ºF in 20 minutes…little difference). A recent study looked at the “distribution” of heat loss and gain. In the case of heat loss, hot to cold; 70-80% of the heat was radiated while 20-30% was conducted and convected out of the building. Now back to R-Value, Given that 20-30% of the heat is leaving the structure conductively and by convection, the R-Value systems are managing 0nly 20-30% of the heat loss problem. And conversely, since the source of all of the summer heat is radiant, 0% of the summer heat gain. Most, if not all of the municipal building departments, follow the DOE recommendations for conductive insulators, obviously missing 70-80% of the problem and energy cost. Go figure! OK, if your energy cost is $300 in a cold month and you are conventionally insulated with R-Values from 19-38 by code, a radiant barrier home would experience approx. $90-100 energy cost. Plus a little bit for the amount of heat the fiberglass “permitted” to seek cold. The next discussion is all about … well, if I keep 70% of the heat I put into the home, why do I need such a big furnace/boiler??? YOU WILL FEEL THE DIFFERENCE!

What is Radiant Barrier?
Radiant Barrier is a space-aged product that is based on the principle of the Dewar Vessel, often referred to as the Dewar Flask. It was invented by Scottish chemist and physicist, James Dewar (thus its name) around the turn of this century. It was developed to contain heat generated in chemical laboratory experiments and re-direct that heat back into the flask.
 

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The Physics of Foil
There are three modes of heat transfer: CONDUCTION, CONVECTION, and RADIATION (INFRA-RED). Of the three, radiation is the primary mode; conduction and convection are secondary and come into play only as matter interrupts or interferes with radiant heat transfer. As matter absorbs radiant energy, it is heated, develops a difference in temperature, and results in molecular motion (conduction in solids) or mass motion (convection in liquids and gas).
 

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Regular Insulation vs. Radiant Insulation
Warnings on insulation rolls advise you to completely protect your self from coming into any kind of contact with the fiberglass - wear safety glasses with side shields, face mask or respirator, gloves, long tight sleeves, long pants and a hat. And still, the itchy fibers manage to get in. Batts are particularly unpleasant to hang overhead in ceilings and under floors and they require straps or wire mesh across the joists to hold them up.

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Garage Insulation Solutions
Adding garage insulation is an easy and low cost way of making your entire home more comfortable and saving on heating and cooling energy costs. The garage can be easily insulated either during new construction or as a retrofit. Garage insulation on the wall that separates the house from the garage will help keep heat and air conditioning inside the main house. Your home will gain in both comfort and energy efficiency.
 

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Steel Building Insulation Basics
The optimum quantity and type of insulation for your steel building is determined by the planned use of the building in conjunction with local climate conditions. Adding insulation will make the building more comfortable, particularly if people will be inside the building. Building insulation acts as a barrier to slow down the movement of heat, keeping it inside the building in winter and outside the building in summer. By controlling the rate of heat transfer through the building, insulation reduces energy consumption, resulting in lower fuel bills and a cleaner environment. 
 

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House Insulation Overview
As a house will stand for 100 years or more, heavily insulating is a worthwhile investment of both time and money. The US DOE asserts that inadequate insulation and air infiltration are the primary causes of energy waste in most houses. The DOE Insulation Fact Sheet lists adequate attic insulation as the top insulation priority. "It is most important not let the sun's heat to be absorbed into the home during the summer.
 

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Insulation for Basements and Crawl Spaces
Due to their underground environment, basements and crawl spaces have different insulation requirements than the house above. Moisture is the primary consideration in developing either a basement or crawl space insulation strategy. Excess moisture can cause mold, mildew, odors, decay, fungus growth and wood rot. 
 

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Attic Insulation Essentials
Using radiant barrier insulation in your attic is paramount to creating a more comfortable and energy efficient home, keeping you cooler in summer and warmer in winter. By properly hiring a pro and  installing a radiant barrier in your attic, you can lower your air conditioning and heating bills and can potentially extend the life of your equipment.
 

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Agricultural Uses
Keeping farm animals and livestock warm in the winter and cool in the summer is of vital importance. Insulation4Less offers reflective insulation products that protect poultry houses from black-globe effect.

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Attic radiant barriers are designed to impede the transfer of radiant heat from the roof of a house to the attic space below. Lowering the attic temperature reduces the cooling load on your air conditioner and increases its efficiency resulting in average savings of 5% to 10% on the cost of electricity to cool your home. . Basically you have two installation choices: Over the attic floor, or between the rafters supporting the roof. Of the two, over the attic floor is the easiest. Doctor Energy Smart offers both for a superior result! 

No stapling is required because you want the reflective sheets to float freely above the insulation allowing for air space underneath the barrier as well as above. If the barrier is compressed against the underlying layer of insulation it will lose its effectiveness.

One concern frequently voiced with "over the attic floor" installations is dust accumulating on the surface of the barrier and degrading its effectiveness over time. But opinions vary depending on the source. Here are two conflicting opinions from separate U.S. government agencies.

According to the National Bureau of Standards, U.S. Dept. of Commerce, "Thin layers of dust readily visible to the eye do not cause very serious lowering in the reflecting power. The appearance of the surface is not a reliable guide as to its reflectivity for radiant heat. Foil which appears dark or discolored may have lost little in insulating value if the surface film is thin."

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If your attic is uncluttered and you decide to proceed with the over the floor installation, purchase a perforated barrier especially designed to allow moisture to pass through, and take care not to cover kitchen and bathroom vents or recessed lights.